Day 7 - Lindau to Konstanz - beginning with a special blog for Mom...

After days of gasping and gawking at the amazing arrays of flowers, I realized I now expect to be impressed at every turn.. As we biked through a more normal, much less abundantly floral area I wanted to find the mayor and ask what was up - I mean seriously, what is wrong with your inhabitants; they are very unimpressive with their gardening skills. I saw only one to two shades of purple and several green only abode - unacceptable!

So this first part of the blog is dedicated to my Mom, who both appreciates and has a green thumb. We have seen a vast array of flora - flowers hang from windows and decks; lavender apparently 'belongs' in every rocky krag.

As the pictures will show, roses of every size and color are everywhere. Where there is a phone pole, is, clearly, the most appropriate place for an overflowing basket of begonias or melon-sized peonies.

We have biked by train tracks that, instead of being ugly and metal, are surrounded by yellows and purples, reds and pinks, and yards of wild baby's breath.

The fields of fruit trees are equally impressive: apples, apricots, plums and pears and berries galore. Today's snack was local cherries, blue berries and johannesberren - and honey (Lucas drank it from the jar).

When not tended to by a careful hand, the flora cared for by mother nature is equally gorgeous. We are surrounded by nature at it's best and most beautiful...check out pics.

So, the ride. Once again, the gods of the path, who are wise and all-knowing, smiled upon us and we had an easy ride to the Bodensee (Lake Kontance). We took the catamaran to Konstance where we checked into a small hotel. The water is a beautiful turquoise and the lake is full of sailboats. The ride was no more than 30 minutes.

So, I really like to experience different cultures and I got my wish at the hotel. First, I need reading glasses, second, I figure it'll all work out - ok, so we have two rooms; while CR is getting settled, I fill out the paperwork: Name, Address, okay. I go back Down to the receptionist desk to get a wireless code and the lady is having a bit of a fit. Here is how it went; we will refer to her as 'OATDCIL' = overly attentive to detail check in lady .

OATDCIL - I was reviewing your paper work ( say this like colonel Klink at it's much more realistic) and I noticed that you entered your name on the registration papers for both rooms.

Me, in fluent German ( I. E. it's not because I didn't get something) - yep.

OATDCIL-but you are only staying in one of the rooms. I must have papers which show exactly who is on all the rooms.

Me - my brother, Charles, is in one room with his two kids and I am in the other with my son. Would you like me to get my brother?

OATDCIL - no, but that is not represented on this paperwork.

Me - would you like me to correct it? I can cross out my name on the paperwork for his room and write his name there, in that space.

OATDCIL - no, no. We cant cross things out. The papers must match the reservation. I must know who
is in the rooms. I must have the correct birth dates for everyone.

Me ( very fascinated by her obsession) - my son and I are in one room and my brother and his two children are in the other. Would you like me to have my brother come down? I know everyone's birth dates. I can fill them in.

OATDCIL - no. Under normal circumstances I would need to see him and some ID. I will have to have you fill out another form - oh! We have wasted a form. This is not good. You are not staying in both rooms but your name is on both forms.

Me - I can cross out the information on the original form and enter the correct information. Are you sure you don't want me to get him?

OATDCIL - Under normal circumstances I would need to, but I am working this out. We can't cross things out. Okay, I am going to get a new form. But you have to focus. You can't make any mistakes, okay?

Me - ok. Ummm. Was he born in 67 or 68?

OATDCIL - she takes the paper from me. Please, can you get your brother and have him fill this out - I have already used one form and these HAVE to match the reservation.

Me- yes. I will get him.

OATDCIL - all 5 of you need to sit at the same table and eat at the same time for breakfast . And we have a very strict policy against smoking.

Me - okay! Neither of us smoke. But, I don't know about the kids. You may need to talk to them.

OATDCIL - No! They cannot smoke. Our policy is clear.

Me - I am kidding. They are 5,11 and 14. No one smokes.

OATDCIL - our policy does not allow smoking.


I go upstairs and give CR the scoop about OATDCIL. His experience, although shorter, is equally fascinating.'j

We are both disturbed as we think about her upbringing or how she is managed. WHEWWW.

We spent a couple of hours walking around and came across a children's dance performance which was wonderful.

Tomorrow we will make it to Zurich and dinner with friends there.

Don't miss the flower pics!

Lucas' dining experience, continued

1. This pizza is as big as my head!
2. I can't get enough goulaschsuppe Or Spaghetti!
3. At this Point, i will Eat anything.

Day 6 - Mittelberg to Lindau (68K)

Even after a couple beers outside while watching the Germany v. Italy soccer game, I was awakened to the lightening. I ignored the first few strikes but then found myself in 'Poltergeist' counting the seconds between the strikes and the thunder...sometimes 15, sometimes 2. Seeing the alps lighted up by lightening is different. Fortunately, by the time breakfast rolled around all had passed. The sun was out and the mountains called.

As usual, after breakfast, we loaded up our bikes and headed out. It was hot and sunny, but thank goodness not as hot as in Nashville!

We had been warned that this was going to be a day of climbing. Climbing we did, but there were many more down hills and flats. The intensity of the climbs was enough to leave me (47) thinking about how they would get my corpse back off the country roads if I were to have a heart attack in route. The picture of Lucas and me (close up of faces) is just after we crushed a major climb. My mantra on the way up was 'just don't die'.

That climb was precipitated by another that was a teaser. It ended at, of course, a castle. There, were met by a merry band of middle aged bikers who immediately cheered and gave us gummi bears. Lucas and their most extraverted got into a conversation about riding a Cannondale right away. Lucas said it was his 'soccer legs' that got him up the climb.

On the down hills, I wished for my Cervelo (fast bike). With this much luggage, you have to break and I longed to lean forward and hit 40. Lucas whooped as we went down a 2k run that brought us closer to the Bodensee (Lake Constance).

In Lindau, we decided to bypass the expensive, touristy section and go an additional 5k. We found a reasonable hotel 10 minutes from the Bodensee. After much needed showers, we headed there.

We had our first accident here. I was a bit ahead checking out a swimming space when I noticed that the rest of the crew had stopped. When I focused, I saw someone was on the pavement. Sho had hit some gravel and gone down fast and hard. He was bruised and his helmet was cracked in two places (wear a helmet !!) but otherwise he was fine, thank goodness.

The place where people swim would shock most Americans, and be restricted due to the likelihood of drowning. But, we loved it: an expansive lawn leading to the slippery steps into immediate 6 feet of cold water. Lucas and I swam out and back several times. It was not safe for Saya, who desperately wanted to get in. Charlie and I had to work together to give her a water experience. The boys kicked the soccer ball around until we left for dinner.

The hotel gave us a recommendation and we walked 10 minutes or so to a restaurant that had a soccer field behind it - ah, yeah!

It was so amazing to see how the boys made quick friends had a pick up game with 6+ local boys (see pic). Lucas told me all their names. If only we could get adults to find synergies so quickly!!

We met a lovely couple, Anita and Armando, we hope will visit. We also met a pug. They are the same in all cultures :)






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Things Lucas has eaten

1. Crepe
2. Not pot, but pudding cup
3. Knoedel
4. Schnitzel with sauerkraut.
5. Strawberry and cream cheese cakes
6. Nutella
7. Tomato soup with croutons
8. Spaghetti
9. Pork with knoedel
10. Lemon torte

....more to come!

Day 6 - Mittelberg to Oberstaufen (47k)

The gods of the bike path smiled down upon us today. Although we started with a bit of a climb (half mile pretty steep), thereafter we had mile after mike of nice, clean concrete. There were 3k stretches of flats. We promised the boys we would stop at any 'epic soccer fields' which are also known as 'any soccer fields'. So along the way we had two great finds (see pic). Saya prefers to be in charge of all things, so I took her to a nearby field where we made purple and white clover necklaces
so that the boys could play uninterrupted. There was a pond of incredibly clear water there where she created 'an underwater garden' by planting the flowers in the silt.

As usual we found some incredible restaurants along the way - I have included a bonus blog titled 'things Lucas has eaten'. We have learned to take a few packets of nutella from breakfast with us as a snack.

Our goal today was to increase our mileage a bit without causing the kids any issues which we did no problem. If we had had more climbs, it would have been more difficult. Tomorrow, we've been warned, will be steep.

In Oberstaufen, we are about 45k from Landau which we hope to make tomorrow, weather and terrain depending. We found a great hotel with a pool. The kids love swimming after an all day bike ride, and ice cream. They got both.

Tonite we are watching Germany v. Italy in the semifinals. Slightly sunburned, but happy, we will sit in a beer garden and soak it all in.

Conversation:

Charlie- asking Saya to write/draw in her journal about the day.

C- 'You could draw a picture of the horses we saw.'

S -' Uh, Daddy, I can't draw a horse. I can only draw Unicorns.'

Day 5 Schwangau to Mittelber (35k)

We staretd the day feeling very lite: we left our luggage at the hotel and biked to the base of Neuschwanstein. It was great to get some speed under our wheels! Our hotel was only 2k from the base. Unfortunately, the gondola ride was 2 1/2 hours, time we did not have. So, we enjoyed the view for a bit and then headed back to the hotel to load up and roll out.

Our routine has been: 1) check in 2) remove 200 pounds of luggage 3) bring bikes to storage area 3) haul luggage to room 4) shower and eat or eat then shower, depending on our hunger level 5) update blog while kids chill 6) sleep 7) wake up and eat 8) load bikes with luggage 9) head out

Today as we 'headed out' we were, once again, greeted by wonderful weather. The good news is that it was 65 and blue skies. The bad news was, due to the light, cool breeze, we forgot the sunscreen. We weren't badly burned, but we learned our lesson - Lucas and I both have farmers' tans and our faces are pink.

We had a day of lovely paths today. I would say that less than 2k of our 35 was on gravel or rock. That said, we had some major climbs. We were close to the clouds and the kids did a great job 'spinning'. The key is biking in a low gear and keeping your breathing and heart beat in check. We all appreciated the spectacular views at the top of all of the climbs. At one (see pic), we ran through the field and sang 'The Hills are alive with the sound of music, ah ah, ah, ah'. I'm serious - it looked just like that.

Lunch...hmm...seems so long ago. Oh yes, we stopped at a pizzeria on a lake. Very lovely. In Nessling, we took a food break and had green grapes, nutella, a ritter sport and water. That helped us for the looming climbs we had not anticipated. Our recent sugar intake helped a lot and we made it without tears, but with lots of spinning and deep breathing.

We found a great hotel with an indoor pool, dinner on site, a playground which included a pingpong table and trampolene.. Saya got to pet some horses, so all is good in 5 year old land. I have not seen so much food consumed in a while. I'm not kidding. The kids ate and ate: soup, salad, wurst, cheese, grilled pork, mushrooms, knoedel, spaetzli, duck, fish, all the bread and butter on the table. Tomorrow we are going to try to start a bit earlier and see if they can handle a longer day. They key will be the climbs. It's funny how hills can impact your mood.


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Day 4, the second half

So for those bike riders who might be reading this and wondering about the short distances, it is much different on 1) very heavy bikes 2) various terrains from nice asphalt to rocks and rivers and 3) with three kids. #1 is the biggest influencer. I am amazed when I try to lift my bike that I'm going 10 mph any time at all.

So, as we set out today on our 30k goal ride to the town of Schwangau, once again, I'm thinking, this won't take more than 2 hours. We rolled out at noon or so and after a flat, a forgotten item at the hotel, a lunch break, hills, gravel, a few streams and a river, we arrived at our destination at 6pm.

It is hard to find the words to describe the scenery. Gorgeous, breathtaking, 'sound-of-music-like' almost do it justice. We went from forrest of 100 foot pines to rolling lush green valleys with the alps in the distance. Lucas said at one point 'so I don't use the word beautiful very much, but man, that is beautiful.'. I expected Gandolf to come by or to at least see a Hobbit in this Shire-like landscape. We got none of that, but plenty of other bikers and the occasional local in Lederhosen. Had this been a drinking tour, we could have spent time in a beer garden every hour or so.

Once again, and Dad, you'll be happy, we were on 99% trails. We passed a cow who had just had a calf and acres and acres of purple, white and yellow wild flowers.

Approaching Schwangau, we noticed a castle in the distance - ah, yes, Neueschwanstein! The one we saw is actually just down the road from the famous Neueschwanstein, but just as impressive. We are taking the kids to one or both tomorrow. We lucked out and found a 2 bedroom hotel room after a few minutes of concern after the first 4 hotels we checked with were full. Once again, we have eaten well and are going to sleep tight tonight.


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Day 3 - Murnar to Bad Kohlgrub (20k)

When Charlie and I saw the weather forecast (rain) we decided a shorter ride was in order. We left Murnau around 1230 and had our first rain ride. It was somewhere between a sprinkle and a pour. We had on rain jackets and cycling gloves. About 5k in we had to stop so that Lucas could add another layer of pants but then all was fine.

Once again, we were on a traffic-free path. It was gravely, but I'll take that over traffic any day. Our bikes have 40-60 pounds of luggage, so gravel is not a great medium. My bike is so heavy, I can't lift it. That said, we headed to the bike path and were greeted by cloud covered mountains, a babbling brook and purple, white and yellow wild flowers. The kids were optimistic and very soon were singing and making up puns. More than once they expressed their awareness of the beautiful surroundings.

We had agreed, from the beginning, to stop at any soccer field. After about 2 hours through a nature preserve, we exited and, of course, there were two huge, pristine fields. Saya (5) was goalie. Lucas and Sho took turns on offense/defense. Charlie and I were co-goalies/cheerleaders. After half an hour we road the last 5 miles into Bah Kohlgrub.

I have experienced some hills, but OMG, this was something else. As we approached the village, the hills became steeper and steeper. I was doing a pedal rotation every two seconds! We would come to a corner, convinced we were approaching a flat area only to see another incline. The boys started saying 'are you kidding' about every half mile.

The last hotel we were in recommended Hotel Schillingshof (google it!) . The Garmin said we were just 2k away...but imagine that pretty much straight up. We made it riding half way and then had to push the bikes. Charlie had been holding off on some chocolate cookies and Lucas, Saya and I declared half way 'chocolate cookie time'. What a relief some calories were! I pushed Sho's and my bike the last incredibly steep 1/2 mile up. I am confident that my heart works - it almost decided to jump out of my chest and into one our our bike panniers.

Ok - SO IT WAS ALL WORTH IT. THIS HOTEL IS AMAZING!!

I had simply booked the place based on the recommendation of the previous hotel staff. Maybe they didn't like us and wanted us to do the incredible climb, but maybe, just maybe, they decided to recommend a once in a lifetime place. We are not in high season - that would be ski season or August. We got the rooms for about $150 per night in a hotel that would easily get 3 x that in the high season.

After checking in and storing the bikes, we took the kids to the indoor pool where they had the pool to themselves. It was at 25M pool with a view of...the clouds. I had my goggles and did some laps hoping I could recall this experience next time I'm swimming, sleepy, in Nashville at 530 am.

Dinner was included and was a buffet of salads, cheeses, pasta, meats cheeses, veggies. Dessert included chocolate mouse, tortes and fruit. Lucas said 'I am going to eat until I can't eat any more' (a rarity from him).

At first I thought all the flowers were silk, but then realized that the 20+ large vases were full of local roses and hydrangeas. Flowers everywhere!!! Mom - if you are reading this, I kid you not, they had Edelweiss for sale at the farmers' market!!!

After dinner there was pool (billiards, not water). Then the kids relaxed for the evening. The weather is supposed to be clear tomorrow.


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One Flat, Two Friends and a Rockin' Go Cup

After about 10 minutes of riding this morning, I noticed Lucas' back tire was close to flat. We pulled over in a little garden area and were met within seconds by a typicaly Bavarian Man who seemed to have some 6th sense that we might need something. We asked for a pump which he had in his garage that was about 20 feet from where we stopped. As the photo shows, he proudly sported a wool cap. His wife came out and offerred us some home made Linden tea, which was sweet and delicious. Lucas glulped down a glass full much to her delight. I asked if we could take a picture and the man said he'd be right back, that he needed to get another hat. This one was adorned with minature wood cutting tools; he had been a wood cutter before he retired. After the pictures we said our goodbyes, but then the man asked me to come into the house so that he could show me their bavarian kitchen. For just a minute my American paranoia kicked in and I thought maybe this was going to be a Hansel and Gretel nightmare scene, in which I enter the house of the nice Bavarian, who proceeds to lead me downstairs to his torture chamber. WAKE UP! Ok, so, their home was picture book perfect and sparkling clean. The table was set with green and white pottery and the tiny space was adorned with local wild flowers and crisp white curtains. A bowl of strawberries from their garden was in the middle of the breakfast table. He proudly showed me the siting room and all their weeding pictures. This year was their 60th anniversary! There was a corner adorned with crosses and statues of Maria. I am guessing if we'd shown interest we would have been welcomed to stay the day. Just before we left, the wife brought out a glass bottle of concentrated linden tea; she gasped as I poured it into one of our water bottles and was relieved when I explained that we'd be sure to add it to the plethora of water bottles we had. The road called, so we said our goodbyes and headed out. Lucas took a sip of the uncut linden concentrate and explained, 'now that some sweet!". The sky was incredibly blue with scatterd cumulus clouds. It was about 75 degrees and we heard its going to get up to 85 in the next couple of days.


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Pictures of day 2 ride

Kids swimming in Stanberger See

Stock broker in winter, wool sock wearing Bavarian in summer

Lucas' helmet hair

Alps in the distance

Beer garden where we watched Italy v. England - view from our window.